If you live in Colorado Springs and you own a sprinkler system, you need a sprinkler blowout every fall so the lines do not freeze, crack, and cost you a lot of money in repairs. That is the short version. A Colorado Springs sprinkler blowout is simply using compressed air to push water out of your sprinkler pipes, valves, and heads before winter temperatures drop below freezing.
That sounds simple. It is not always simple in practice.
Colorado Springs has quick temperature swings. One day feels like late summer, the next morning you wake up to a hard freeze. So timing and method both matter. A rushed job with the wrong air pressure can damage your system. Skipping the blowout can crack pipes underground where you cannot see them until spring when you turn the water on and find a swampy spot in the lawn.
This guide walks through the whole process in plain language. If you have some basic tools and you are comfortable turning valves and watching pressure, you may decide to do it yourself. If any part of this sounds stressful, you will at least know what to ask a contractor, and you will be less likely to pay for work you do not need.
If water stays trapped in sprinkler lines in a Colorado Springs winter, something usually breaks. The only real question is how soon you will notice and how expensive the fix will be.
Why sprinkler blowouts matter so much in Colorado Springs
Colorado Springs is dry, sunny, and often windy. People rely on sprinklers to keep lawns, trees, and gardens alive. At the same time, winter here is cold enough that buried water lines are at real risk.
Here are a few local factors that make blowouts more than just a nice idea.
Freeze depth and soil conditions
Many residential sprinkler lines sit 6 to 12 inches below the surface. In strong cold snaps, frost can reach that depth. Some contractors aim deeper when they install, but older systems are all over the place.
Dry, rocky soil also shifts and settles. That can leave some pipes closer to the surface than the installer planned. Water trapped in those shallow points can freeze solid.
You do not need your whole yard to freeze solid to have a problem. One low spot full of water can crack a pipe or break a fitting.
Typical damage when you skip blowouts
Here are common problems that show up in spring when a system was not winterized properly the fall before:
- Cracked PVC or poly pipes underground
- Broken backs in sprinkler heads
- Damaged manifolds or valve bodies
- Leaks around the backflow preventer
- Geysers from heads that snapped over winter
In my experience, the repair cost range in spring can be something like this:
| Problem | How it shows up | Rough repair cost range |
|---|---|---|
| Cracked lateral pipe | Soft, soggy area or visible standing water | $150 to $450, depending on access |
| Broken sprinkler head | Small geyser when zone runs | $25 to $80 per head |
| Damaged valve or manifold | Zone will not shut off or will not turn on | $120 to $350 per valve |
| Backflow preventer damage | Leaking or spraying at the device | $200 to $900 |
Prices vary, of course, but even if these numbers are off by a bit in your area, it is clear that one winter of neglect can easily cost more than several years of proper blowouts.
When to schedule a sprinkler blowout in Colorado Springs
This is where people often get stuck. Blow out too early and you might be watering by hand during a warm October. Blow out too late and you can hit that first deep freeze.
Typical timing for the Front Range
Most local homeowners aim for late September through late October. Landscapers often pack their schedule in that time window. Some push into early November in mild years, but that starts to feel like a gamble when night temperatures dip hard.
Weather is not an exact science, so rather than give one “perfect” date, it helps to watch a few signs:
- Night lows consistently near or below 28°F
- Daytime highs staying cooler, with less rebound
- Local blowout ads starting to show up everywhere
I think a safe rule is this.
If your night lows have hit the mid 20s more than once and your system is still fully pressurized, you are cutting it too close. Schedule the blowout or shut the water off and drain what you can.
Can the first light freeze ruin everything?
Not always. A single mild freeze, where the air dips just below 32°F for a short time, may only freeze exposed parts like above ground backflow parts. Buried lines might be fine.
But the problem is that you cannot see what is happening under the lawn. Repeated freeze and thaw cycles cause more stress than one quick dip, and that is exactly what fall and early winter often bring in Colorado Springs.
How a sprinkler blowout works in simple terms
A blowout uses compressed air to push water out of your sprinkler system. The goal is not to “dry” the system completely. The goal is to clear enough water that any remaining pockets have space to expand if they freeze.
Basic steps in the blowout process
The exact layout will vary by yard, but the general pattern looks like this:
- Turn off water to the sprinkler system at the main shutoff point.
- Connect an air compressor to a proper blowout point.
- Open valves zone by zone.
- Push air through each zone until the mist and water slow to a light spray.
- Repeat zones if needed, then leave valves and drains in the desired winter position.
Many homeowners want to know if they can do this with a small portable compressor. Sometimes you can, for a small system, but it takes longer. A contractor will usually use a large tow-behind compressor so the air volume is high enough to push water out quickly without relying on high pressure.
DIY blowout vs hiring a professional
This is where I will disagree with some homeowners. People often say “It is just air, how hard can it be?” In theory, yes, blowing air through pipes is simple. In practice, you can damage things if you push the wrong pressure, or you can miss zones if you are not sure how the valves are laid out.
Reasons to hire a pro
- You do not own a compressor with enough volume.
- Your backflow preventer is hard to access or confusing.
- You have more than 6 or 7 zones or a large yard.
- You prefer someone else to take the risk and the time.
Many local sprinkler companies keep blowout pricing flat per yard, sometimes with a cutoff on zone count. In Colorado Springs, it is common to see seasonal specials. The cost of one professional blowout is usually much lower than even a single cracked backflow replacement.
Reasons you might try it yourself
- You have a smaller system and clear zone labels.
- You have a decent compressor (or can borrow one).
- You like doing home projects and are willing to learn.
I do not think DIY is always a bad idea. But it is not a good match for everyone. People who rush, skip steps, or guess at pressures can cause damage that a contractor will then have to fix in spring.
Tools and supplies for a DIY sprinkler blowout
If you decide to try this yourself, you will need a few items. Some are simple plumbing parts, others relate to air pressure and safety.
Basic tool and equipment list
- Air compressor with adjustable pressure regulator
- Proper air hose rated for the pressure
- Blowout adapter (often a threaded fitting to connect air hose to sprinkler line)
- Basic wrenches or pliers
- Flathead screwdriver for some valve covers
- Hose bib key if your system uses one
- Safety glasses
- Work gloves
The compressor is the tricky part. For home systems, the key is air volume (CFM) at around 40 to 60 psi, not extremely high pressure. Many small garage compressors do not have enough volume to clear long runs quickly. So they need longer run time and more patience.
| Compressor type | Fits what kind of system | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Small portable (1 to 6 gallon) | Very small yards, 2 to 4 zones | Cheap, easy to move | Low volume, long wait times, can overheat |
| Mid-size workshop unit | Medium systems, 4 to 8 zones | Better volume, more reliable output | Still slower than contractor compressors |
| Tow-behind gas compressor | Larger systems, many zones | High volume, fast, what pros use | Rental cost, noise, weight |
Finding your sprinkler shutoff and blowout port
This is often the hardest part for a new homeowner. The sprinkler system may be older than you, the paperwork long gone, and everyone just says “The guy before you handled that.” So, you need to play detective a bit.
Typical shutoff locations
- Inside the house, near where the main water line enters
- In a basement or crawl space along the front wall
- Near the water heater or furnace area
- Sometimes in a utility pit outside, though that is less common
Look for a branch line that goes toward the outside wall, often with a ball valve and sometimes a drain cap beneath it.
Common blowout connection points
Most systems have one of these:
- Threaded fitting near the backflow preventer
- Dedicated blowout valve on the manifold
- Hose bib connection tied to the sprinkler line
If you find a capped fitting that looks like a hose connection but is on the sprinkler line, that might be your blowout port. Do not just start loosening random parts on the backflow preventer unless you know which part does what. Those assemblies are touchy and often tied to city requirements.
Step by step: How to blow out your sprinkler system
I will go through the common steps. Keep in mind that your system may have small differences. If something looks very different from what I describe, stop and investigate before forcing it.
1. Turn off the sprinkler water supply
Find the main sprinkler shutoff valve. It is often a ball valve with a lever handle. Turn the handle so it is perpendicular to the pipe. That closes the flow.
Some systems also have a second shutoff outside near the backflow preventer. If you see another valve there, close that as well. That adds a second layer of protection against accidental water refilling the lines.
2. Open manual drains (if present)
Below some indoor shutoffs you will see a small drain cap or drain valve. Place a bucket under it and open it. A bit of water will drain out. This relieves pressure and lets trapped water leave that short section.
Not every system has this. If you do not see a drain, do not worry about it. Just do not force any plug that looks like it has pipe thread tape on it unless you are sure it is a drain.
3. Attach the air compressor
Now connect your compressor hose to the blowout fitting. This may require a special adapter. Many are simple threaded pieces that take standard quick-connect air fittings.
Before you turn anything on, set your compressor regulator to a safe starting pressure. For most residential systems, people stay in the 40 to 60 psi range. Some manufacturers are even more conservative and limit it to around 50 psi. I do not recommend going over 80 psi on any typical home sprinkler, and many systems do not need that much to clear.
High air pressure does not equal a better blowout. You need enough volume at a moderate pressure, not a blast strong enough to blow heads out of the ground.
4. Blow out the first zone
Turn on the first zone from your sprinkler controller. If your controller has a “manual single station” setting, use that. If not, you can use the standard manual start setting but watch carefully so you do not cycle too fast.
Once the zone opens, slowly start the airflow from the compressor. Water will start spitting out of the heads in that zone. At first it may look like full watering. Then it will become more of a mix of mist and air.
Let that zone run with air for about 2 to 3 minutes, or until the water flow drops a lot and you mostly see a light mist. You do not have to wait until every drop is gone. The goal is to push out most of the standing water.
5. Move through the remaining zones
Now shut off that zone at the controller, open the next zone, and repeat the process. Keep an eye on the compressor so it does not overheat. Some smaller units need breaks.
Take your time with each zone. Do not try to blow out the whole system with all zones open at once. That spreads air too thin and can leave pockets of water behind.
6. Return to tricky zones a second time
Many yards have one or two zones that sit lower than the rest or have long runs. After you go through all zones once, it can help to loop back and run those low or long zones a second time for a short burst. You might see a bit more water appear as pipes settle.
If your system has drip lines, be gentle with those. Drip tubing is more fragile than standard sprinkler pipe. Some people prefer to isolate drip zones and drain them separately or use very low pressure.
7. Shut everything down for winter
When you are done blowing out all zones, turn off the compressor first. Then bleed off any remaining pressure in the hose before you disconnect the fittings.
Make sure:
- Main sprinkler shutoff valve is closed.
- Indoor drain is open if your installer recommends that.
- Backflow preventer valves are left in their recommended winter position.
- Controller is set to “off” or in a winter mode, so it does not cycle zones.
You might want to hang a small tag on the shutoff valve or write a quick note for yourself about what position everything is in. By spring, it is easy to forget.
Protecting your backflow preventer in Colorado Springs winters
The backflow preventer is the odd looking brass or plastic assembly, often on the side of the house or in a box in the yard. It keeps sprinkler water from flowing backward into your drinking water supply.
These devices tend to sit above ground. That makes them more exposed to freezing temperatures. Even with a good blowout, you will want to inspect and prepare this part carefully.
Steps to help protect the backflow
- Close the shutoff valves feeding the backflow.
- Open the test cocks or small drain screws on the assembly to let water drain.
- Leave the test cocks at a 45 degree angle if the manufacturer suggests that.
- Add a simple insulated cover over the assembly if it is above ground.
A cheap foam cover or small insulated box can prevent many freeze issues. Some people wrap their backflow with towels and plastic. That is better than nothing, but a purpose made cover tends to last longer and look cleaner.
Common mistakes in sprinkler blowouts
Not every mistake will break your system, but some are more serious than others. If you are new to this, watching for these can save you some trouble.
Using too much pressure
This is the most common DIY problem. People think “More is better” and crank the regulator high. That can crack fittings, damage heads, or harm the backflow. Remember, you are not trying to power wash the pipes. You are trying to push water gently but firmly.
Leaving zones closed while pushing air
If you push air into a closed system with nowhere to escape, pressure builds fast. Always make sure a zone is open when the compressor is feeding air. Never push air into a closed backflow assembly without an open path.
Rushing the process
Some people flip through zones in under a minute each just to say they are done. They might get away with that in a mild winter once or twice. But over time, the odds catch up. Longer runs need more time. Watch the actual water output, not the clock alone.
Ignoring low spots and drip lines
Any place where water can collect is a risk point. Drip lines, swing joints to heads, and low ends of zones stay wet longer. If you know a certain corner of your yard is lower, pay attention to the zone that feeds that area.
How sprinkler blowouts fit into your yearly yard routine
If you think of your yard maintenance as a yearly cycle, the blowout is just one piece, but an important one. Many people in Colorado Springs water hard all summer, then once Labor Day passes they mentally shift away from yard work.
Spring: you start the system, repair any leaks, maybe adjust heads.
Summer: you fine tune watering days and times, and maybe deal with a broken head from a mower or kids playing.
Fall: you have two main jobs: leaf cleanup and winterizing the sprinkler system.
Making blowouts part of that fall habit helps you avoid surprises in April or May.
Questions to ask a sprinkler blowout service
If you prefer to hire a contractor, it helps to ask a few direct questions. That way you know what you are paying for and how they work.
- What pressure and equipment do you use for residential blowouts?
- How many zones are included in your base price?
- Do you handle backflow draining and winter positioning?
- Will you show me the valves and shutoff, so I know where they are?
- What happens if a part freezes after your blowout? Any guarantee?
Some companies will stand behind their work for a limited period, at least on parts they control. Others will not, especially if your system has odd piping or pre existing issues. It is better to know that upfront instead of guessing.
What about Colorado Springs watering rules and blowouts?
Water restrictions vary by year and by utility guidance. They mostly affect how often you can water in summer and what times of day. They do not usually change the need for a fall blowout.
If anything, with more focus on water use, sprinkler systems are seen as investments that should be maintained, not just run to failure. A cracked sprinkler line that leaks underground wastes water. A proper blowout helps prevent that type of hidden leak.
Simple checklist for Colorado Springs homeowners
If you prefer a short list to keep on your phone or fridge, something like this can help:
- Target blowout window: late September through late October.
- Watch night temps: several nights below 28°F means do it soon.
- Locate main sprinkler shutoff and backflow preventer.
- Decide: DIY with proper compressor or hire a pro.
- If DIY, keep air pressure in a moderate range (around 40 to 60 psi).
- Blow out zones one at a time until mostly air and light mist.
- Double check low zones and drip lines.
- Drain and protect backflow assembly.
- Set controller to off for winter.
The goal is not perfection. The goal is to remove enough water that any freezing that does happen in the lines has space to expand without breaking things.
Quick Q&A: common sprinkler blowout questions
Do I have to blow out my sprinklers every single year?
In Colorado Springs, it is a good idea every year. Some winters are milder, but you do not really know until after the season ends. Skipping a blowout because the forecast “looks warm” is a bit of a gamble. You might win once or twice, then lose in a big way when an early deep freeze hits.
Can I just drain the system without using air?
Some older systems have manual drains at low points. If all the lines slope correctly and every low point has a drain, you might drain most of the water that way. In real yards, though, lines usually have small sags and odd runs, so air helps clear pockets that normal draining misses.
Is it bad if a little water mist still comes out after I finish?
No. A light mist or a bit of spray is normal. You rarely get absolute dryness. As long as you have cleared the heavy flow and the heads are mostly blowing air, you have achieved what most contractors aim for.
What if I cannot find my shutoff or backflow?
This happens more often than you might think, especially in older houses or when the previous owner added zones over time. If you are not sure what you are looking at, it is better to call a local sprinkler or plumbing service once and have them walk you through the layout instead of guessing and opening the wrong valves.
Is a blown out system totally safe from winter damage?
Not 100 percent. Extremely cold winters, unusual ground shifts, or existing weak spots in pipes can still cause issues. But a proper blowout lowers the odds of freeze damage a lot. You are stacking the odds in your favor rather than relying on luck.
What is the simplest way to decide between DIY and hiring someone?
Ask yourself two questions: Do you have the right compressor, and do you feel comfortable working around pressurized air and water lines? If the answer to either is no, bringing in a pro for an hour once a year is usually cheaper than fixing avoidable damage later.
