Winterization matters this year because a hard freeze in Colorado Springs can crack underground lines, burst backflow parts, and leave you with water damage when things thaw. It costs less and takes less time to winterize than to repair a broken system. And with tighter watering schedules, higher part prices, and service calendars filling early, waiting is not a smart bet. If you want a simple path, schedule a professional for Colorado Springs sprinkler winterization. Here is a local option: Sprinkler company Colorado Springs.
You probably already know the basics. Water expands when it freezes. Plastic and brass do not like that. But this year has a few twists that make the decision simpler, not harder. Early cold snaps along the Front Range have become less predictable, parts have stayed expensive compared to pre-2020 levels, and many homeowners keep smart controllers running late into fall because the weather feels warmer by day. That mix tricks people into waiting. Then one night dips to 20 degrees. Lines freeze, and the repair bill shows up in spring. I have seen it more than once, and I am not trying to scare you. I want you to avoid a boring, preventable expense.
If water sits in valves, heads, or the backflow, a single hard freeze can split plastic, crack brass, and flood a basement when temps rise.
I think the question is not whether winterization is worth it, but how to do it right, early enough, and without making it a big project. You can do it yourself if you are careful. Or you can hire a pro and be done in 30 minutes. Both paths can work. The bad approach is doing nothing because you hope winter will start late. That happens some years. It also fails some years.
What winterization actually means for a sprinkler system
Winterization is the process of removing water from the irrigation lines and protecting the above-ground parts from freezing. That is it. Simple idea, specific steps.
Key parts that need protection:
– Main shutoff and any exposed copper or PEX between the house and the backflow
– The backflow preventer (often a PVB or RP device)
– Zone valves and manifolds
– Lateral lines and sprinkler heads
– Drip lines and emitters
Aim to complete winterization before the first hard freeze that sits below 28 degrees for several hours. In the Springs, that can hit from late September through October.
There are two common methods:
– Gravity drain: Open drain valves and let water leave on its own. Works only if the system was built with proper low-point drains and slope.
– Compressed air blowout: Use an air compressor to push water out of each zone through the heads. This is the standard in Colorado Springs.
Most homes here do not have perfect gravity drains. Blowout is the norm.
Why this year is a little different
I like simple reasons. Here are the ones that stand out this season. Not all will apply to you, but a few will.
– Early cold snaps feel more random. Warm afternoons, then a sharp dip overnight. That swing catches systems that were left on to get one more watering cycle.
– Replacement costs are still high compared to five years ago. A cracked PVB or RP can cost hundreds to replace, not counting labor.
– Pros book faster. Good companies fill their schedule weeks sooner. If you wait, you might miss the safer window and get stuck with a mid-freeze slot.
– Water rules are tighter. Even if rates are not skyrocketing, wasting water through hidden leaks costs you, and it hurts pressure for your neighbors too.
– Backflow break-ins are rare but real. An empty, insulated backflow is less tempting and less fragile than one full of water during a deep freeze.
If you want one takeaway: plan it earlier than last year. Not crazy early, just not last minute.
Common damage from skipping winterization
Here is what breaks most often when lines freeze:
– Hairline cracks in PVC laterals
– Split poly tubing on longer runs
– Broken sprinkler heads, especially if they were already tilted
– Cracked brass on the backflow preventer
– Stuck or split zone valves
– Broken fittings near the manifold
What you notice in spring:
– Zones will not pressurize
– Heads sputter, then flood an area
– Water seeps near the foundation after the system runs
– A new rattle or whistling near the backflow
One cracked backflow preventer can cost more than a decade of yearly blowouts.
I once spoke with a neighbor who skipped winterization because the fall felt warm. In April, his basement wall got damp. Turned out a split in the copper line near the shutoff was leaking each time his irrigation ran. The actual repair was simple. Finding it was not.
DIY or hire a pro: which makes sense?
You can winterize on your own if you have the right tools and a bit of patience. Or you can book a pro. Both paths work. The right choice depends on your comfort and your system.
DIY winterization: tools and steps
Basic tools:
– Air compressor that can sustain 5 to 10 CFM at 40 to 60 PSI
– Quick-connect adapter to your sprinkler system blowout port
– Adjustable wrench, screwdriver
– Insulation covers for the backflow
– Marker or phone to note zones as you work
Safe settings:
– Start at 40 PSI, test a zone, then adjust if needed
– Do short bursts per zone, 2 to 3 minutes, with rests between cycles
– Never exceed the manufacturer limits for your pipe and fittings
Process overview:
1. Turn off the irrigation water at the main shutoff.
2. Open test cocks on the backflow to release pressure.
3. Connect the compressor to the blowout port.
4. Run one zone at a time from the controller.
5. Blow each zone until only mist appears, then stop. Let it sit, then repeat once.
6. Do not run the compressor continuously on one zone. Heat can damage components.
7. Open manual drains, if present, after the blowout.
8. Leave the backflow ball valves at a 45-degree angle and test cocks open.
9. Insulate exposed parts.
Mistakes to avoid:
– Using a tiny pancake compressor that cannot hold CFM. It spikes pressure and drops fast, which is not helpful.
– Cranking PSI above 60 to make up for low flow. That is when fittings can fail.
– Forgetting to shut off water at the house. Water can creep back into the line.
– Leaving the controller on auto. It should be off or set to rain mode.
Hiring a pro: what to expect
A typical visit takes 20 to 40 minutes for a standard yard. The tech will:
– Shut down the water
– Blow out each zone with a truck or tow-behind compressor
– Drain and set the backflow
– Flag broken heads they notice
– Leave your controller off or in standby
Around Colorado Springs, pricing often falls in this range:
– Small system, up to 6 zones: 60 to 90 dollars
– Medium system, 7 to 10 zones: 80 to 120 dollars
– Large system or acreage: higher, quoted case by case
You might see discounts for early booking or multi-property visits. Ask for a time window that lands before the first likely hard freeze.
DIY vs pro at a glance
| Factor | DIY Blowout | Pro Blowout |
|---|---|---|
| Upfront cost | Low if you already own a capable compressor, higher if renting | Moderate per visit |
| Time | 60 to 120 minutes the first time | 20 to 40 minutes |
| Risk of overpressure | Higher if settings are wrong | Low, standard procedure |
| Thoroughness | Varies with experience | Consistent, zone by zone |
| Convenience | Requires adapter, careful setup | Simple scheduling |
If you have a small compressor, a big lot, and no adapter, waiting for a pro is smarter. If you have the right gear and a simple layout, DIY can be fine. I lean pro for most people because it is fast and predictable. But I also know people who enjoy doing it themselves each year.
When to winterize in Colorado Springs
Colorado Springs sits at a higher elevation than Denver. Nights get colder faster. The safe window tends to be late September through October, depending on your microclimate. Areas near open space or higher ground can freeze earlier. Lower, protected yards may buy a week or two.
A good rule:
– Watch the 10-day forecast.
– If you see nighttime lows dipping to 28 degrees or lower for several hours, that is your cue.
– Do not wait for the first snow. Snow can insulate grass, which hides the damage in the lines.
If you are on a smart controller, set a calendar reminder to move the system to off or winter mode the day your blowout is complete. Some controllers run a monthly test cycle unless you disable it. That surprise run can refill lines.
How to protect the backflow preventer
The backflow preventer sits above ground, which makes it a freeze risk. It needs special attention.
Steps:
1. Turn off the main irrigation shutoff inside the house or in the valve box.
2. Open the test cocks on the backflow to release pressure.
3. Rotate both backflow ball valves to 45 degrees. This prevents trapped water from sitting on the seals.
4. Wrap the unit with an insulated cover. Do not seal it in plastic that traps moisture against metal.
If a freeze arrives before your blowout appointment:
– Shut off irrigation water.
– Open test cocks.
– Cover the backflow with an insulated cover or towels in a trash bag as a temporary fix.
– Book the blowout as soon as possible.
If a backflow splits, water can flow during the first warm day and run until you notice it. That is an expensive way to water your driveway.
PSI, CFM, and zone-by-zone tips
Air pressure and flow matter. The goal is to move water, not to shock the system.
– Start at 40 PSI. Some zones will clear at that level.
– If a zone has long runs or rotor heads, move to 50 or 55 PSI carefully.
– Keep compressor output steady. High flow clears water without pushing pressure too high.
– Give each zone 2 to 3 minutes, then rest to prevent heat from building in the valves.
– Repeat once if needed.
Common pipe types and typical safe PSI ranges:
| Pipe Type | Typical Residential Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| PVC Schedule 40 laterals | 40 to 55 PSI | Short bursts, watch fittings |
| Polyethylene laterals | 45 to 60 PSI | Long runs may need more time |
| Drip lines | 25 to 35 PSI | Use reducers or clear via zone valve upstream |
These are general ranges. If you know your system specs, follow those. If you do not, stay conservative and use more time instead of more pressure.
What about drip zones and micro irrigation?
Drip zones can be tricky. Emitters restrict flow, so air may not move water out as fast.
– If your drip zone has a filter and pressure regulator, remove the cap and clear upstream first.
– Use lower PSI, closer to 25 to 35.
– Let it run longer. You are moving water through small passages.
– If you can, disconnect low points briefly to release water.
Some homeowners leave drip tubing empty and accept that a few emitters may need spring replacement. That is a choice. I still clear mine. The time is small compared to the cost of chasing tiny leaks in April.
Will smart controllers handle winter for me?
Short answer: no. Smart controllers adjust watering schedules. They do not remove water from pipes. A rain skip or freeze skip setting will avoid running a cycle during bad weather, which helps a little. It does not protect a backflow filled with water at 2 a.m. in October.
Set the controller to off after the blowout. If you like, unplug it. Some models keep a small test cycle unless fully off. Read your model’s instructions if you are unsure.
How winterization fits into your fall yard plan
This is not a solo task. It pairs well with other fall jobs.
– Aeration and overseeding
– Final mowing with the mower deck slightly higher
– Leaf cleanup to prevent matting on the lawn
– Draining and storing hoses
– Checking exterior hose bibs for freeze covers
If you schedule services, try to line them up. For example, aerate and overseed, water that seed for a week, then complete the blowout once germination is settled and the forecast dips. That sequence avoids drying out seed while still beating the freeze.
Cost math that actually helps your budget
People ask if winterization pays off. I think it does, but let us put numbers on it.
Typical costs:
– Professional blowout: 60 to 120 dollars
– Backflow replacement: 200 to 600 dollars or more, parts and labor
– Valve manifold repair: 150 to 400 dollars
– Lateral line repair with digging: 200 to 600 dollars
– Water damage from an indoor break: varies widely, often thousands
One freeze can create two or three breaks. Even if you do not see water right away, it can show up as soggy patches or low pressure later. A single blowout avoids that risk. The value is not flashy. It is steady and boring. That is fine. Boring is good here.
How to spot a rushed or poor blowout
Not all services are equal. A few signs the job was rushed:
– The tech runs all zones for 30 seconds each and calls it done.
– They use high PSI with a small portable compressor that surges.
– They skip the backflow adjustments and leave ball valves vertical.
– You still see water bubbling from heads when they finish.
Good pros clear each zone until it mists, then rest, then repeat. They set the backflow and controller. If you are present, ask questions. You will learn what to watch for next year.
What to do if you missed the window
Sometimes life happens. Maybe a freeze hit earlier than you planned.
Steps:
– Shut off irrigation water at the main.
– Open the backflow test cocks.
– Cover exposed parts with an insulated cover.
– Call for a blowout on the next above-freezing day.
Do not run the system to test it after a freeze. Wait for a pro to assess it, or if you DIY, wait for a warm day and then check zones one by one with a watchful eye. If you hear water under the ground, stop and investigate.
A quick checklist you can save
- Watch the 10-day forecast for lows at or below 28 degrees
- Book a blowout or prep your DIY setup by late September to October
- Shut off the irrigation main before the blowout
- Blow zones one by one, 2 to 3 minutes, short rests, 40 to 60 PSI
- Open backflow test cocks, set ball valves to 45 degrees
- Insulate exposed backflow and piping
- Set controller to off or rain mode
- Mark any broken heads to fix in spring
Finish winterization on your timeline, not on the first hard freeze’s timeline.
How this connects to broader local news and home advice
If you read general news, you see two themes: water matters in the West, and home repair costs keep trending higher than they used to be. Winterization touches both.
– Water rules: Cities adjust watering days and times. Leaks fight those goals. A leak in a lateral wastes water quietly until your bill arrives.
– Insurance claims: Frozen pipe claims can be expensive. Irrigation sits outside, but breaks can reach inside near the shutoff. A small step in fall lowers that risk.
– Supply and scheduling: When a cold snap hits, phones explode at repair companies. Crews triage breaks. Preventive work gives you control instead of joining the rush.
I do not think winterization solves every yard problem. It solves a very specific one at a very fair cost. That is rare in home care.
A personal note on timing and mistakes
The first year I handled my own blowout, I used a small compressor. It read 50 PSI on the gauge. In reality, the flow was too low. I spent 20 minutes on a long rotor zone and thought it was clear. In spring, two heads sputtered. A fitting had cracked at a low point. The fix was minor, but the lesson stuck. Pressure readings without enough flow give a false sense of progress.
The next year I rented a better compressor and cut the time in half. No breaks. If you are on the fence, it is fine to change your mind. Book a pro this year and watch the process. Try DIY next year with the right gear. Or vice versa.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need a blowout if I have manual drains?
Maybe not, but usually yes. Manual drains help, especially at low points. They rarely catch everything in a typical suburban layout. A blowout clears water in long runs and small pockets that drains miss.
Can I use a shop vac or a leaf blower?
No. They do not produce the steady pressure and flow needed to move water through the full length of sprinkler lines. You need a proper air compressor.
What PSI should I use?
Start at 40 PSI. Increase slowly to 50 or 55 for longer rotor zones if needed. Stay conservative and use time, not pressure, to finish the job.
Do I have to insulate the backflow if I blow out the lines?
Yes. The backflow body and above-ground piping can still hold small amounts of water or trap condensation. Insulation adds a layer of protection against early and late freezes.
When is it too late to winterize?
It is rarely too late. If you still have water in the lines and the weather gives you a day above freezing, do it. Even after one freeze, clearing the system helps prevent more damage in the next cold snap.
Will a freeze ruin every part at once?
Not usually. Damage shows up at weak points first. That might be a thin fitting, a shallow lateral, or the backflow. You might see one failure this year and a second one the next. That staggered pattern can fool people into thinking they were fine. They were not.
Is winterization required by law?
For most single-family homes, no. It is a practical choice, not a rule. Some HOAs have guidelines for winter care, and commercial properties often have rules for backflow testing. For a home system, winterization is a smart habit, not a mandate.
What if I still want to water new seed late in fall?
You can, but set a personal cutoff. Water the seed for two to three weeks, watch the forecast, then blow out. Do not run a full system cycle the night a freeze is forecast.
How long does a professional blowout take?
Often 20 to 40 minutes, longer for large properties or complex drip zones.
What does a good spring startup look like after winterization?
Open the irrigation main slowly, set the controller to a short test, run each zone, and look for even pressure. If you winterize well, spring startup is quick and boring. That is the goal.
If you still wonder whether to do it now or wait, ask yourself a simple question: would you rather schedule an easy 30-minute visit this month or gamble on a repair visit in spring? I think you know the answer.
